Ranger/FreeRider/Challenger/X-Force: No LED indication after power ON, motorcycle not responding

WARNING!

If You don’t have suffcient mechanical knowledge, experience and proper tools, we strongly recommend, that You have these operations done by Your selling dealer or at Your local motorcycle service center! Making mistake during the disassembly or assembly of the electric system will void the warranty and may cause a hazardous situation, resulting in fire, severe injury or death and damage to property.
For safety reasons it is strongly recommended to leave the battery discharged before handling any component of the motorcycle's electrical system!
Do not let the battery to stay fully discharged for longer than neccessary, as it may have a negative impact on its capacity. Charge the battery after each ride.

Table of contents:

Disconnected wiring, faulty kill switch or battery
Faulty controller

1. Disconnected wiring, faulty kill switch or battery

Follow these steps to check all parts one by one:

NOTE:
All our motorcycles with Li-Ion batteries have the battery disconnected for shipping. Connect the main power connectors - red to red and black to black before turning the motorcycle ON.

Required tools:

hex wrench #3
hex wrench #4
hex wrench #5
hex wrench #6
Torx wrench #T25
brush
technical alcohol
compressed air source with moisture separator

Make sure, that the magnetic kill switch is in OFF position (magnet NOT attached) and the battery state of charge is very low.
Place the motorcycle on a solid and level surface of a mounting stand, so that both wheels are on the ground.
(Only for Ranger): Using the hex wrench #3 loosen and remove the 2 bolts holding the inspection lid (from below the frame, just above front fender) and remove the inspection lid from the motorcycle.
(Only for Ranger): Using the hex wrench #3 loosen and remove 3 bolts from the left frame cover (above battery) and put the cover aside.
(Only for FreeRider): Using the hex wrench #5 loosen and remove the bolt holding the upper controller cover (just by the steering stem) and remove the cover from the motorcycle.
(Only for FreeRider): Using the hex wrench #4 loosen and remove the lower one of the 2 bolts, that are located on the front metal cover of the battery.
(Only for FreeRider): Using the hex wrench #6 loosen and remove the bolt on the left side of the seat section frame.
(Only for FreeRider): Grasp the seat section frame with both hands and gently pull it to lift it up and slightly backwards.
(Only for Challenger): Using the hex wrench #3 loosen and remove 2 bolts on the right side panel and gently slide this panel up to remove it.
(Only for X-Force): Using the hex wrench #6 loosen and remove the underseat bolt, located on the underside of the upper plastic bodywork (above the rear wheel), slide the seat forward and remove it from the motorcycle.
(Only for X-Force): Using the Torx wrench #T25 loosen and remove the 4 additional bolts from the left and right plastic bodywork (2 on the left side + 2 on the right side) and with a light frame tilt on the mounting stand remove both plastic bodyworks.
Disconnect the 2 main red and black power connectors from the battery to the controller.

WARNING!
Be very cautios and ensure, that the 2 main power connectors from the battery can NOT get in contact with the frame or with each other!
Disconnect the kill switch and use a multimeter with the circuit check function on its inner connector. The correct function is: Magnet attached = closed circuit / Magnet not attached = open circuit. Reconnect the kill switch when finished.
Use a multimeter and measure DC voltage from the top two slots on the charge port, which should be close to 0 V. Make a note of this reading - charge port@motorcycle OFF.
Turn the motorcycle kill switch ON (magnet attached) and repeat the measuring again, which should be in a range of 39 - 55 V depending on the battery state of charge. Make a note of this reading - charge port@motorcycle ON.
Turn the magnetic kill switch OFF again (magnet NOT attached).
Measure the DC voltage between the 2 main power cables - red and black, which should be close to 0 V. Make a note of this reading - battery@motorcycle OFF.
Turn the motorcycle kill switch ON (magnet attached) and repeat the measuring between the 2 main power connectors again, which should be close to the value measured in step #15. Make a note of this reading - battery@motorcycle ON. If the value is still close to 0 V and the kill switch works properly, the battery and/or its BMS modul is most probably damaged.
Now You can disconnect, clean properly with a brush, technical alcohol and pressurized air and reconnect each pair of connectors, one by one. Remember, that the electrical system in FreeRider Street is very complex, comparing to the one in Ranger, Challenger, X-Force or standard FreeRider.

Follow these steps to assemble the motorcycle:
When finished with the inspection and cleaning, reconnect the 2 main power connectors - red to red and black to black.
(Only for Ranger): Reinstall the inspection lid and it 2 bolts, holding the inspection lid on the frame, and using the hex wrench #3 tighten them (5 - 6 Nm).
(Only for Ranger): Reinstall the left frame cover with its 3 bolts and using the hex wrench #3 tighten them (5 - 6 Nm).
(Only for FreeRider): Reinstall the upper controller cover and its bolt and using the hex wrench #5 tighten it (5 - 6 Nm).
(Only for FreeRider): Reinstall the seat section frame by slowly sliding its front tube onto the mating piece on the main frame of the motorcycle and at the same time align the bolt holes of the seat section frame with the corresponding threads on the main frame. During this process be very careful to the main power cables - they must NOT deform in any way.
(Only for FreeRider): Reinstall the bolt to the seat section frame and using the hex wrench #6 tighten it (18 - 20 Nm). You can make this process easier by inserting the hex wrench #6 from the right side of the motorcycle through all the holes and then by pushing the wrench out with the bolt itself.
(Only for FreeRider): Reinstall the lower one of the 2 bolts, that are located on the front metal cover of the battery, and using the hex wrench #4 tighten it (5 - 6 Nm).
(Only for Challenger): Reinstall the right side panel and its 2 bolts and using the hex wrench #3 tighten it (5 - 6 Nm).
(Only for X-Force): With a light frame tilt on the mounting stand reinstall the left plastic bodywork and using the Torx wrench #T25 install and tighten the 2 lower bolts (5 - 6 Nm).
(Only for X-Force): Repeat the same step with the right plastic bodywork.
(Only for X-Force): Reinstall the upper plastic bodywork, align its 2 left holes with the holes on the frame and on the left side bodywork, reinstall 2 bolts and using the Torx wrench #T25 tighten them (5 - 6 Nm).
(Only for X-Force): Repeat the same step on the right side.
(Only for X-Force): Install the seat by sliding it backward on the bolt, located close to the Torque & Speed control button, and align the hole in the seat and the upper plastic bodywork with its corresponding hole on the frame just above the rear wheel.
(Only for X-Force): Install the seat bolt and tighten it using the hex wrench #6 (18 - 20 Nm).
Double check, that all bolts and nuts are properly tightened.

2. Faulty controller

Conclusion from previous tests:

If the previous tests confirm, that there are no faulty connections in the electrical system, the battery shows output voltage between 39 - 55 V and the kill switch works properly, the controller is probably faulty and will need to be replaced.

If Your motorcycle is under warranty, please register it on our website, if You have not already done so:
https://www.kuberg.com/en/bike-registration

If the problem persists, please contact Your dealer or KUBERG customer service (support@kuberg.com). For the fastest possible resolution please send:

VIN of Your motorcycle (it is stamped on the right side of the steering column).
Detailed information on actions taken so far, a few photos and preferably a video.

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Ranger/FreeRider/Challenger/X-Force: No LED indication after power ON, motorcycle not responding

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