Trial/Cross: Cleaning, changing chain/sprockets, adjusting chain tension

WARNING!

If You don’t have sufficient mechanical knowledge, experience and proper tools, we strongly recommend, that You have these operations done by Your selling dealer or at Your local motorcycle service center! Making mistake during the disassembly or assembly of the electric system will void the warranty and may cause a hazardous situation, resulting in fire, severe injury or death and damage to property.
For safety reasons it is strongly recommended to leave the battery discharged before handling any component of the motorcycle's electrical system!
Do not let the battery to stay fully discharged longer than neccessary, as it may have a negative impact on its capacity. Charge the battery after each ride.
For greater durability all KUBERG chains (excluding Start) do NOT use a removable chain master link, therefore the chain change includes removing the motor. KUBERG does not recommend splitting the chain in half while changing it with a new one because of its subsequently lowered durability and a mistake, that can be done very easily.

NOTE:
A proper cleaning and subsequent maintenance of your KUBERG motorcycle will ensure a more enjoyable ownership and experience from riding and can drastically prolong the lifespan of many parts, mainly the chain and the battery. You can wash Your KUBERG motorcycle with a low-pressure water hose with clean water and a soft sponge or cloth. While cleaning the motorcycle, inspect all the motorcycle’s components visually.

CAUTION!

You can remove the chain guard (Start/Trial/Cross) before washing, but do not disassemble the motorcycle in any other way. Ranger has front chain cover directly mounted into the motor and if this cover is removed, water can get into the motor! Bolt in all bolts and tighten them just slightly for the water NOT get into the motor during cleaning!
Pressure washing is not permitted!
Do not use any engine cleaners, solvents or detergents with added salt, as they often contain phosphates, which can damage the paint and electronics.
Prevent contact the water with electrical parts of the motorcycle, especially the charge port, controller, battery, motor and accelerator.
After cleaning measure the chain using the chain wear indicator (type 50H for Start and type 219H for all other KUBERG motorcycles) to decide, whether You need to change it. Do not wait with the chain change for the last possible moment - better sooner than later. If you don’t change the chain in time and let it prolong above the recommended limit, such chain may cause sprockets to wear out extensively, so their change will be required altogether with the next chain change.

Table of contents:

Cleaning the motorcycle, changing the chain and sprockets
Chainging the chains without disassembling the motorcycle

1. Cleaning the motorcycle, changing the chain and sprockets

Follow these steps to clean the motorcycle and change the chain:

Required tools:

hex wrench #3
2 hex wrenches #5
hex wrench #8
Torx wrench #T25
open wrench #10
wrench #15
brush with hard plastic bristles
soft cloth
brake disc cleaner
219H chain wear indicator
219H chain tension indicator
cutting pliers
tongue and groove pliers
red insulating tape
black insulating tape
sliding gauge
off-road motorcycle chain lubricant
zip ties (4 - 8 mm)
threadlock with medium strength (blue)

Required parts:

Cross/Trial: Sprocket 70T (only if damaged)
Challenger/FreeRider/X-Force/Cross/Trial: Motor sprocket 10T (only if damaged)
Cross/Trial: Roller chain 10T/70T (only if worn beyond recommended limit or damaged)

Ensure, that the magnetic kill switch is in OFF position (magnet NOT attached) and the battery state of charge is very low.
Place the motorcycle on a solid and level surface of a mounting stand, so that both wheels are off the ground.
Using the hex wrench #3 loosen and remove 4 bolts holding the chain guard to the swingarm.
Remove the chain cover from the motorcycle by a gentle sideways pull.
Manually clean any dirt from the rear wheel, chain, spring-loaded chain tensioner, swingarm and brake calipers. A brush with hard plastic bristles and a soft cloth will be very useful here.
Clean the motorcycle and let all the parts dry off completely, especially the chain. You can speed up this process by hand-spinning the wheels and using a soft cloth.
Clean brake calipers with a soft cloth and both sides of brake discs with a suitable brake disc cleaner.
Inspect both sprockets, chain and spring-loaded chain tensioner for any damage.
Measure the chain’s wear using a 219H chain wear indicator.

CAUTION!
Do not wait with the chain change for the last possible moment - better sooner than later. If you don’t change the chain in time and let it prolong above the recommended limit, such chain may cause sprockets to wear out extensively, so their change will be required altogether with the next chain change.

If the chain does NOT need to be changed, skip steps #11 - 47 and go to the step #48 to check/set the chain tension.
Using the wrench #15 loosen the left and right nut on the rear wheel.
Using the open wrench #10 loosen both rear wheel tensioners almost entirely for the rear wheel to be able to move forward about 0.5“ (1.25 cm).
Slowly spin the rear wheel and gently pull the chain to the outer side of the sprocket. The chain should slip sideways without much effort. You can ease this step by simultaneous gentle pull down on the spring-loaded chain tensioner roll below the motor.
Remember the position of the spacers on both sides and carefully remove the rear wheel from the swingarm.

CAUTION!
Be aware, that removing the rear wheel will affect the position of the motorcycle’s center of gravity on the mounting stand.
Carefuly cut the zip tie, fixing the rear brake hose to the swingarm.
Using a pair of the hex wrenches #5 loosen and remove the upper bolt and nut on the rear shock absorber
Using the hex wrench #8 loosen and remove two side bolts on the swingarm axis, gently uninstall the swingarm from the motorcycle and put it close to the motorcycle due to the rear brake hose, that is still connected. Be careful and don’t twist the brake hose.
(Only for Cross Hero): Using the hex wrench #6 loosen and remove the underseat bolt, located on the underside of the upper plastic bodywork (above the rear wheel), slide the seat forward and remove it from the motorcycle.
Using the Torx wrench #T25 loosen and remove the upper 4 bolts from the upper plastic bodywork (2 on the left side + 2 on the right side).
Remove the upper plastic bodywork by gentle pull up.
Using the Torx wrench #T25 loosen and remove the 4 additional bolts from the left and right plastic bodywork (2 on the left side + 2 on the right side) and with a light frame tilt on the mounting stand remove both plastic bodyworks to access the motor.
Remove the main red fuse from its socket.
(Only for Lead-Acid battery):
a) Check, whether the 2 cables, leading to the lower battery, have red and black ends (some older models did not have it). If not, use red insulating tape to mark the end of the cable, that leads to the positive pole of the battery, and use black insulating tape to mark the end of the cable, that leads to the negative pole of the battery. Optionally you can do the same with the upper batteries.
b) Disconnect cables with red and black ending from the lower battery.
c) Cut the zip tie and remove the velcro tape from the lower battery. Then gently pull the battery out from the frame.

WARNING!
Prevent any contact of the battery poles with the frame!
Using the hex wrench #5 and the wrench #10 loosen and remove the lower motor bolt.
Using the hex wrench #5 and the adjustable wrench repeat the same for the upper motor bolt.
Slowly pull the motor backward for about 4" (10 cm) and check the spring-loaded chain tensioner, whether its spring, arms, bolts and nuts are fine, moving freely and everything is properly tightened (8 - 10 Nm).
(Only when changing the sprockets): Using the cutting pliers carefully cut the shinking tube from the motor connector and disconnect it.
(Only when changing the sprockets): Pull the motor out from the frame.
(Only when changing the sprockets): Using the hex wrench #4 and tongue and groove pliers loosen and remove the motor sprocket, install the new one and tighten the bolt (5 - 6 Nm).
(Only when changing the sprockets): Using the Torq wrench #T25 loosen and remove the 6 bolts from the rear wheel sprocket, install the new sprocket and tighten the bolts (5 - 6 Nm).
Remove the old chain and install the new one.

Follow these steps to reinstall all parts into the frame:
Gently put the motor forward into the frame and reinstall the 2 bolts with their washers and nuts. Using the hex wrench #5 and the wrench #10/adjustable wrench tighten them (8 - 10 Nm).
(Only when changing the sprockets): Reconnect and insulate the motor connector using an insulating tape.
Reinstall the swingarm, apply a drop of threadlock with medium strength (blue) on its 2 bolts and using the hex wrench #8 tighten them (58 - 60 Nm).
Pull the rear wheel up and align the upper mounting hole on the shock absorber with one of the mounting holes on the bracket (depending on the rider’s height) and install the bolt with its nut.
Using 2 hex wrenches #5 tighten the bolt and its nut together (8 - 10 Nm).
(Only for Lead-Acid battery):
a) Return the lower battery onto its place in the frame, poles forward, and fix it firmly to the frame using the velcro tape and zip tie.

WARNING!
Prevent any contact of the battery poles with the frame!

b) Reconnect the cable with the red ending to the positive pole of the lower battery. Double check, that the wiring is correct!
c) Reconnect the cable with the black ending to the negative pole of the lower battery. Double check, that the wiring is correct!
Reinstall the red fuse into its socket. A short and audible spark may appear during closing the circuit.
With a light frame tilt to the right reinstall the left plastic bodywork, reinstall 2 lower bolts and using the Torx wrench #T25 tighten them (5 - 6 Nm).
Repeat the same with the right plastic bodywork.
Reinstall the upper plastic bodywork and align its 2 left holes with the upper holes on the left plastic bodywork and with the threads on the frame. Reinstall 2 bolts and using the Torx wrench #T25 tighten them (5 - 6 Nm).
Repeat the same step on the right side.
(Only for Cross Hero): Slide the front hole on the seat on the bolt, located close to the Torque & Speed control button. Align the thread in the seat with the rear hole in the upper plastic bodywork and with corresponding hole on the frame just above the rear wheel.
(Only for Cross Hero): Install the seat bolt and using the hex wrench #6 tighten it (16 - 18 Nm).
Use a zip tie to safely fix the rear brake hose to the swingarm and ensure, that neither the brake hose, nor the zip tie cannot get in contact with the rear wheel.

Follow these steps to reinstall the rear wheel and set the correct chain tension:
Check, that the rear axle spins freely in the hub.
Carefully insert the rear wheel back into the swingarm, with all spacers in the same grouping as before the uninstallation. The brake disc must slide easily between the brake pads. Be aware, that adding the rear wheel to the motorcycle will affect the position of the motorcycle’s center of gravity on the mounting stand.
Push the rear wheel forward, slowly spin it by hand and load the chain onto the sprocket. Also check, that the chain is loaded correctly into the main chain tensioner’s roll.
With the rear wheel nuts loosen, use the wrench #10 to slowly and alternately tighten both rear wheel tensioners, while still maintaining a straight position of the rear wheel relative to the shock absorber, which will also keep the chain line straight. During loosening the tensioners regularly gently push the rear wheel forward, for both tensioners to stay in contact with the rear end of the swingarm.
Continuously measure the distance between the spring-loaded chain tensioner’s roll and the the swingarm, which should be 0.2 – 0.4“ (5 - 10 mm). The roll must not be able to touch the swingarm during its up and down movement.

WARNING!
Proper chain tension and straight chain line are important for its lifespan and rider safety and can also prolong the riding time. Do not tighten the chain too much - if the chain is overtightened, it will be loud, it will wear out quicker and also shorten riding time. If the chain is too loose, it may fall off the rear sprocket and cause an accident. To be absolutely sure, that the chain tension is set correctly, use the 219H chain tension indicator. The spring-loaded chain tensioner, located below the motor, helps to keep the chain tension in optimal values, but for its correct operation a proper distance of the rear wheel to the motor is required. Additionally if the spring is damaged, the spring-loaded chain tensioner will not be able to preload the chain sufficiently.
Using the wrench #15 tighten both left and right nut of the rear wheel (24 - 26 Nm).
Check, whether the whole braking surface of the rear brake pads is in contact with the rear brake disc, when the rear brake lever is pushed. If not, using the hex wrench #5 loosen 2 side bolts, holding the rear brake caliper adapter on the swingarm, and move the rear brake caliper forward or backward to increase the braking surface to its maximum.
While hand-spinning the rear wheel, lubricate the cleaned chain in the area behind the spring-loaded chain tensioner with an appropriate off-road motorcycle chain lubricant. Wait a minute for a lubricant to dry off, then remove excess lubricant from the chain with a soft cloth.
Spray a small amount of lubricant on the spring-loaded chain tensioner’s pivots and bearings and ensure, that it moves up and down smoothly. Remove excess lubricant with a soft cloth.

WARNING!
Prevent contact of the lubricant with the tire, brake calipers and discs - it would have a major negative impact on the braking force! It probably won’t be sufficient to brush the brake pads with sandpaper and very often new brake pads are required.
Reinstall the chain cover and using the Allen wrench #3 tighten all 4 bolts, that hold the chain cover on the swingarm (3 - 4 Nm).
Double check, that all bolts and nuts are properly tightened.

2. Chainging the chains without disassembling the motorcycle

If you want to change the chain by splitting it (not recommended), skip the steps #12 - #47 and follow this method instead:

Required tools:

grinder
chain splitter
sliding gauge

Required parts:

Grind off one chain pin, loaded on the rear sprocket, so it’s completely flush and only the friction is holding the pin in.
Use a chain splitter to split the old chain.
Repeat the same for the new KUBERG Trial/Cross chain, which comes in one piece, and remove 2 adjacent pins on the wider chain link.
Install the new chain, load it into the spring-loaded chain tensioner and connect its free ends with the lubricated rivet master link (sold separately).
Use a chain riveter to fasten the rivet master link on the new chain.
Using the digital caliper make sure, that the rivet master link width is the same as the width of any other link on the chain. Use a chain riveter again if necessary.
Check, that the rivet master pins are secured firmly, so the chains can NOT self loose during ride.
Follow steps #48 up to the end (see above).

WARNING!
The rivet master link must move freely on the chain, otherwise it can lock the rear wheel and cause an accident!

If Your motorcycle is under warranty, please register it on our website, if You have not already done so:
https://www.kuberg.com/en/bike-registration

If the problem persists, please contact your dealer or KUBERG customer service (support@kuberg.com). For the fastest possible resolution please send:

VIN of your motorcycle (it is stamped on the right side of the steering column).
Detailed information on actions taken so far, a few photos and preferably a video.

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Trial/Cross: Cleaning, changing chain/sprockets, adjusting chain tension

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